broccoli cheddar soup — Creamy Broccoli Cheddar Soup

Creamy Broccoli Cheddar Soup

The first time I made broccoli cheddar soup at home, I did the thing everyone does. I dumped a bag of shredded cheddar into a pot that was still bubbling and watched it turn into grainy strings floating in green water.

It took me an embarrassingly long time to work out that the cheese wasn’t the problem. The heat was.

Now the cheese goes in at the very end, off the boil, a handful at a time. The soup comes out smooth enough to coat a spoon, and it takes about forty minutes from standing in front of an open refrigerator to sitting down with a bowl.

Prep: 15 minutes · Cook: 25 minutes · Total: about 40 minutes · Serves: 6

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Why does cheese get grainy in soup?

Cheese breaks when it boils. The proteins tighten and squeeze out the fat, which leaves stringy curds in a thin broth. Take the pot off the heat before the cheddar goes in, add it a handful at a time, and stir until each one melts before the next.

What Makes It Work

  • The butter-heavy roux here is deliberate. Four tablespoons of butter to four tablespoons of flour is more fat than a standard thickening roux calls for, and it gives the soup body and richness without turning it pasty.
  • Cooking the flour for a full minute or two until it turns golden cooks off the raw taste. Skip it and the finished soup has a faint chalkiness underneath everything else that’s hard to place and impossible to fix.
  • Grated carrot isn’t decoration. It’s the sweetness that keeps a pot of cheddar and salt from tasting flat, and it’s in both versions of this soup I compared.

I left the carrot out once because I didn’t have one. The soup was fine and slightly boring, and I haven’t skipped it since.

What Makes This Broccoli Cheddar Soup Special

  • One pot, forty minutes, and no special equipment.
  • It uses a whole head of broccoli, stems and all, which is a good use for the thing wilting in your crisper drawer.
  • Kids who won’t eat broccoli will eat this, which is not nothing.
  • Cheaper than the bread bowl version by a wide margin, and you control how much cheese goes in.

The Ingredient List

  • 4 tbsp butter (1/2 stick)
  • 1 medium onion, chopped
  • 2 to 3 cloves garlic, minced
  • 4 tbsp all-purpose flour
  • 2 to 3 cups low-sodium chicken or vegetable stock
  • 3 cups broccoli florets, cut small (about 1 lb, or 1 large head)
  • 1 large carrot, grated or finely chopped
  • 2 cups half-and-half
  • 8 oz block cheddar, grated (about 2 cups)
  • 1 tsp kosher salt
  • 1/2 tsp black pepper
  • Optional: 1/4 tsp nutmeg, or 1 tsp paprika

Picking the Right Ingredients

Grate the cheddar off a block. This is the single most important line in the recipe.

Pre-shredded cheese is dusted with starch so it won’t clump in the bag, and that starch is exactly what turns a cheese soup gritty. Mild, medium, or sharp all work, and sharp tastes closest to the restaurant version most people are picturing.

Half-and-half is the middle path and what both versions I checked call for. Whole milk makes a lighter soup, heavy cream a richer one, and all three behave the same way in the pot.

What matters is that it goes in at the end, not the beginning.

Cut the broccoli small, smaller than looks necessary. In a fifteen-minute simmer, large florets stay raw at the stem while the outsides overcook.

Peel the thick stems and chop them in with everything else, since they’re sweeter than the florets and there’s no reason to throw them out.

Use low-sodium stock. Between the stock, the salt, and eight ounces of cheddar, a regular stock will push the whole pot past what you can fix.

close up of broccoli cheddar soup

Let’s Make It

  1. Soften the onion. Melt the butter in a large Dutch oven or heavy pot over medium heat. Add the chopped onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until it’s soft and just starting to turn gold at the edges, about 4 minutes.
  2. Add the garlic. Stir in the minced garlic and cook for one more minute, until it smells sweet rather than sharp. Garlic added at the start of the onion would scorch by now, which is why it waits.
  3. Cook the flour. Sprinkle the flour over the butter and onions and whisk constantly for 1 to 2 minutes, until the mixture turns a shade darker and smells faintly toasted. It will look like thick paste. That’s correct.
  4. Add the liquid and vegetables. Pour in the stock while whisking to keep it smooth, then add the broccoli, grated carrot, salt, pepper, and the nutmeg or paprika if you’re using it. Use 2 cups of stock for a thick soup, 3 for a looser one.
  5. Simmer 15 minutes. Bring the pot to a boil, then turn the heat to medium-low and let it simmer, uncovered, until the broccoli is tender enough to break apart against the side of the pot with a spoon.
  6. Take the pot off the heat. This is the step that decides how the soup turns out. Move it off the burner entirely before any dairy goes in.
  7. Add the cream and cheese. Stir in the half-and-half, then add the grated cheddar a handful at a time, stirring until each addition disappears before adding the next. Return to low heat for a minute if it needs warming, but don’t let it boil again. Taste and adjust the salt.
serving broccoli cheddar soup

Good to Know

  • Stock is the dial for thickness. Two cups gives you the thick, spoon-coating bowl most people want from this soup, and three gives you something closer to what you can drink from a mug.
  • If you like a smoother texture, pulse about a third of the soup with an immersion blender before the cheese goes in, then stir it back together. Leave the rest chunky.
  • Don’t boil the soup after the cheese is in. Reheating leftovers over high heat causes the same graininess as adding the cheese too early.
  • Sharp cheddar carries further than mild. If you want a stronger cheese flavor without adding more cheese, that’s the lever to pull.
  • A pinch of nutmeg in anything creamy makes the dairy taste rounder without making the soup taste of nutmeg. It’s optional, but it’s the kind of small thing people notice and can’t name.
  • Salt at the very end, after the cheese. Cheddar brings its own salt and how much varies a lot by brand.

How to Store It

Cool the soup and keep it in an airtight container in the refrigerator for 3 to 4 days. It thickens considerably as it chills, which is normal for anything thickened with a roux, and a splash of stock or milk loosens it back up when you reheat.

Reheat gently over low heat on the stove, stirring often, and stop as soon as it’s hot. Boiling it again will break the cheese the same way boiling it the first time would have.

A microwave works for a single bowl if you go in short bursts and stir between them. I don’t recommend freezing this one.

Soups thickened with flour and loaded with dairy separate on thawing, and no amount of stirring brings the texture fully back.

What Goes With Broccoli Cheddar Soup

  • Crusty bread or a warm baguette, because half the point of a thick soup is having something to drag through it.
  • A simple green salad with vinaigrette, which cuts the richness better than anything else on this list.
  • Grilled cheese cut into strips, which turns this into the dinner most people remember from childhood.
  • A baked potato, split open with a ladle of soup poured straight into it.

What I Use to Make This

  • A large Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed pot, since a thin pot scorches a roux-based soup along the bottom before you notice.
  • A whisk for the roux stage, which does a better job than a spoon at keeping the flour smooth as the stock goes in.
  • A box grater for the cheese and the carrot, both of which are better grated by hand here.
  • An immersion blender, optional, only if you want a partly smooth soup.

Common Questions

Why is my broccoli cheddar soup grainy? Either pre-shredded cheese or too much heat. The starch coating on bagged cheese doesn’t melt cleanly, and cheese added to a boiling pot breaks into strings. Take the pot off the burner first and use cheese you grated yourself.

Can I use frozen broccoli? Yes, and it needs less time. Add it about 8 minutes into the simmer instead of at the start, since it’s already been blanched and will turn to mush with a full fifteen minutes.

How do I make broccoli cheddar soup thicker? Use 2 cups of stock instead of 3. If it’s already made, let it simmer a few minutes longer before the dairy goes in, or blend a portion of the vegetables into the base.

What cheese is best for broccoli cheddar soup? Sharp cheddar from a block. Mild works and tastes gentler, but sharp gives you more flavor per ounce, which means you can use less cheese for the same effect.

Can I make this vegetarian? Use vegetable stock instead of chicken. Everything else in the recipe is already vegetarian.

If You Liked This One

Creamy Broccoli Cheddar Soup

Recipe by Daisy MerrittCourse: DinnerCuisine: American
Servings

6

servings
Prep time

15

minutes
Cooking time

25

minutes

Ingredients

  • 4 tbsp butter (1/2 stick)

  • 1 medium onion, chopped

  • 2 to 3 cloves garlic, minced

  • 4 tbsp all-purpose flour

  • 2 to 3 cups low-sodium chicken or vegetable stock

  • 3 cups broccoli florets, cut small (about 1 lb, or 1 large head)

  • 1 large carrot, grated or finely chopped

  • 2 cups half-and-half

  • 8 oz block cheddar, grated (about 2 cups)

  • 1 tsp kosher salt

  • 1/2 tsp black pepper

  • Optional: 1/4 tsp nutmeg, or 1 tsp paprika

Directions

  • Soften the onion. Melt the butter in a large Dutch oven or heavy pot over medium heat. Add the chopped onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until it’s soft and just starting to turn gold at the edges, about 4 minutes.
  • Add the garlic. Stir in the minced garlic and cook for one more minute, until it smells sweet rather than sharp. Garlic added at the start of the onion would scorch by now, which is why it waits.
  • Cook the flour. Sprinkle the flour over the butter and onions and whisk constantly for 1 to 2 minutes, until the mixture turns a shade darker and smells faintly toasted. It will look like thick paste. That’s correct.
  • Add the liquid and vegetables. Pour in the stock while whisking to keep it smooth, then add the broccoli, grated carrot, salt, pepper, and the nutmeg or paprika if you’re using it. Use 2 cups of stock for a thick soup, 3 for a looser one.
  • Simmer 15 minutes. Bring the pot to a boil, then turn the heat to medium-low and let it simmer, uncovered, until the broccoli is tender enough to break apart against the side of the pot with a spoon.
  • Take the pot off the heat. This is the step that decides how the soup turns out. Move it off the burner entirely before any dairy goes in.
  • Add the cream and cheese. Stir in the half-and-half, then add the grated cheddar a handful at a time, stirring until each addition disappears before adding the next. Return to low heat for a minute if it needs warming, but don’t let it boil again. Taste and adjust the salt.

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